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XXXX MAGAZINE was in full force covering New York, London and Paris Spring/Summer 2010 collections for our launch issue. Rather than go down the obvious route and cover the designers we have all heard of over and over again, we focused most of our attention on emerging designers this season as well as designers with an artistic edge rather than commercial approach. There were some exciting collections on show for Spring Summer.
Check out the following links to see our exclusive multimedia coverage and reviews:
TRAILER – COUNTERFEIT CONSPIRACY – XXXX MAGAZINE
“COUNTERFEIT CONSPIRACY” is a 15 minute documentary exposé focusing on the controversy surrounding the sale of counterfeit luxury goods and the “links” to funding terrorism and other underground criminal activities. Directed by Indira Cesarine, edited by Randy Wells. Premiering on the XXXX MAGAZINE site.
XXXX MAGAZINE NEW YORK FASHION WEEK
SPRING/SUMMER 2010 TREND REPORT
Reporting by Indira Cesarine assisted by Cristina Cuyco for XXXX Magazine
New York, September 10-17, 2009
By the time the first shows hit the runways in New York, it was clear summer was over and a new season had begun. XXXX Magazine hit the shows to check out the latest trends coming out of New York fashion week… there was an interesting energy of new and old hitting the city with the new Mac & Milk space set up at Milk Studios creating a modern venue for shows and presentations, as well out with the old… as the last season of fashion week at Bryant Park set the stage for an end to an era in New York. What were the major trends that came out of such a setting? Between the 139 shows and 69 presentation on the calendar, New York forecasted many trends that later hit the international runways of London, Paris and Milan…
X – NEUTRAL X NEUTRAL
In a fight to keep sales up in the credit crunch, designers veered towards classic shades that hold timeless appeal… clothing that can be worn again and again, and can be staple pieces in any wardrobe. Clean, crisp, safe and of course neutral … shades of white, grey and beige or khaki made up almost exclusively the color palette of many shows… simple, clean aesthetics for a conservative wallet…
The collections of Adam, Christian Siriano, Doo-ri, Elise Overland, G-Star, Herve Leger, Jeremy Laing, Luca-Luca, Malandrino, Marc Jacobs, Max Azria, Monarchy, Tadashi Shoji, Tommy Hilfiger and Vassilios who maintained monotone neutral looks…
X – THE ART OF COLLAGING
High craft fashion has invaded the New York runways. Patchworking, Cutouts, peek-a-boo slits, and clashing fabric textures layered and sewn together created a new treatment to fabric that we haven’t seen since the 70’s. This modern translation of traditional patchworking deserves it’s own term, as it is an art onto itself. Fabric pieces and layers are integrated with woven effects and unusual fabric treatments that make the art of “collaging” a new look for 2010.
Designers who presented looks with these kind of elements were 3.1 Phillip Lim, Behnaz Sarafpour, Herve Leger, Jill Stuart, Marc Jacobs, Max Azria, Hervé Léger, Rodarte, Thakoon, Thuy, Y-3 and Zac Posen. Rodarte’s collages of burnt plaid cheesecloth, sandpapered silk, and woven leather braid skirts and vests stood out as some of the strongest designs with this effect.
Following from the fall/winter ‘09 trend of one-shouldered looks, spring collections once again showcased more than ever asymmetrical designs. There were 80’s body-con versions, 90’s architectural takes and 70’s ruffled romantic looks hitting the runways all with asymmetrical cuts shaping the silhouette.
A recurring theme throughout the week, this season it has grown in strength with designers such as Calvin Klein, Mark Jacobs, BCBG Max Azria, Halston, Jason Wu, Jill Stuart, Luca-Luca, Malandrino, Marchesa, Matthew Ames, Milly, Nicolas K, Tadashi Shoji, Thuy, Tommy Hilfiger, Vassilios, Y-3, Yigal Azrouel and Zac Posen cutting their fabrics with asymmetrical lines.
X – ROMANCES AND RUFFLES
It was all about frills and romance as Spring 2010 heralds the return of romantic dressing. Light and fluid fabrics floated down the runways with ruffles and frills reminiscent of 70’s backlit summer days. Long free flowing skirts, ruffles and exposed lingerie presented a softer touch for spring.
Designers who had a love affair this season with ruffles and frills were Adam Lippes, BCBG Max Azria, Christian Siriano, Luca-Luca, Malandrino, Mara Hoffman, Marc Jacobs, Marchesa, Monarchy, Narciso Rodriguez, Tadashi Shoji, Tibi, Vivienne Tam and Zac Posen.
X – DESERT TRIBAL
Ethnic prints, animal motifs, geometric tribal patterns, turbans, harem pants and chunky jewelry with a modern Marrakech feel hit the runways throughout the city. Tight hair pulled back with a high braid or hair wrapped in turbans and even the “genie” headscarf look completed the effect of tribal dressing.
Catherine Malandrino was one of the designers most noted for celebrating this look with her collection based on nomadic tribes from Africa. Others include Diane Von Furstenberg, Custo Barcelona, Rosa Cha, Marc by Marc Jacobs, Rodarte and Proenza Schouler.
X TANGERINE DREAM
One color that was impossible to miss this season with the infiltration of Orange everywhere. Many collections only showed neutrals with slices of orange thrown in for a bit of flavor. Traditionally the color orange stands for courage, so perhaps this is a statement of the times to be courageous. With all the 70’s references floating about it’s hard not to also forget that Orange was The color of the 70’s.
Which New York designers sent Orange tones down the runway? 3.1 Philip Lim, Diane Von Furstenberg, Elise Overland, Marc Jacobs, Milly, Monique Lhuillier, Rosa Cha, Thuy and Anna Sui among many more…
Photography of New York runways by Shawna Simmons for XXXX Magazine (3.1 Philip Lim, Alexander Herchcovitch, Anna Sui, Barbara T Fank, Bespoken, Charlotte Ronson, Christian Siriano, Diane Von Furstenberg, Doo.Ri, Generic Denim, Herve Leger, Jeremy Lang, Mara Hoffman, Marc Jacobs, Matthew Ames, Max Azaria, Milly, Monarchy, Nicholas K, Petrou, Rosa Cha, Temperly London, Thuy, Tommy Hilfiger, Twinkle, Vassilios, Vivienne Tam, Whitney Eve, Yigal Azrouel) additional imagery provided by perspective showrooms or courtesy of Style.com.
STAY TUNED FOR OUR SPRING SUMMER 2010 RUNWAY REPORT ONLINE SOON!
X FALL RUNWAY REPORT NYC
Reporting by Indira Cesarine assisted by Cristina Cucyo for XXXX Magazine
XXXX MAGAZINE checked out the latest fashion trends of Fall 2009 at New York Fashion Week. Amongst the chaos of over 155 shows that hit the runways there were several major trends that were not to be missed… the 80’s were everywhere… punk 80’s, glam 80’s, disco 80’s… the classic hourglass shape of the 40’s was highly visible on the catwalk, as well as architectural looks with graphic silhouettes…
X 80’s FEVER
80’s Fever is back. One of the main themes of New York’s Fashion week, this fall you will find yourself wearing leather jackets, metallic mini dresses, graphic tees, sequins, black leather jeans and even shoulder pads which are back in full force. Glamorous and hard, tough and chic looks perfect to rock the pavement and hit the dance floor. MARC JACOBS channeled the 80’s in both his main line and for Louis Vuitton, a clear indicator that this is the look for fall…. Yigal Azrouel, William Rast, Thakoon, Miss Sixty, Kai Kuhne, Thaakon, Hervé Leger… the list goes on of other New York designers who were inspired by these looks for fall …
X SEXY PUNK
Glam Punk is the comeback that never went away. The sexy goth girl and 80’s punk chic was an alternative 80’s look to the disco divas. Punkers are never without their leather and mesh, spray-on leggings, and slashed latex all of course worn with the prerequisite black eyeliner. Mark Jacobs, Alexander Wang, Deisel Black Gold, Miss Sixty, William Rast, Yigal Azrouel Custo Barcelona and Rodarte were among some of the designers who threw punk looks down the runways.
X ARCHITECTURAL INVASION
Strong cuts, bold geometric patterns fitted to the body or draped with layers and always marked by strong shoulders make up the architectural looks for fall. Fransisco Costa at Calvin Klein was most noted in New York for his defined collection which showed strong geometric patterns and sculptural silhouettes. Kai Kuhne’s strong graphic shapes created a modern Joan Crawford look with architectural finishes. Three as Four, Zac Posen, Thuy, Proenza Shouler, Herve Leger, and Rodarte also showed looks with an architectural edge.
X WARTIME FASHION
Structured hour glass shapes with tiny waists and form fitting knee length skirts contouring the figure is what the fashion of the 1940’s were all about. In these uncertain economic times, it is no surprise that designers found inspiration from this era. The retro look hit the runways with ladylike chic. Silhouettes this season with wool skirt suits, tweed dresses, sheer blouses, and sophisticated nipped-waists were all about the 40’s. On an edgier note, some designers were inspired by this era but showed looks with a modern twist, including tight silhouettes in materials like leather with an subtle architectural edge. Michael Kors, Thakoon, DKNY, Michelle Obama’s favorite Jason Wu, Ruffian and on the more glamorous side, Zac Posen’s collection, had the flavor of this era.
XXXX MAGAZINE CREATIVE DIRECTOR, INDIRA CESARINE, MEETS UP WITH DESIGNER CUSTO BARCELONA
During the frenzy of fashion week I managed to hook up with the trendy and eco-friendly designer Custo Barcelona, as he was preparing for his show. In between the madness of models during their fittings and other reporters popping in for interviews we sat down to talk about his latest collection. Custo has been showing at New York fashion week since 1997, and has become famous for his bright colored graphic textile designs, and hippy chic direction. Hailing from Spain (of course!) he prefers to show in New York, so his collection can get the exposure it needs to be on an international level. His latest collection is his most sophisticated yet, with an “eco-glam” theme. It is a fusion of graphics, colors and textiles, mixing references to animals and nature with a Victorian romanticism. Custo only uses synthetic/organic fabrics. Vocally anti-fur with his collection, he maintains the eco quality of his textiles by for example creating faux fur out of bamboo. He presented to me some of his latest looks, which all have hidden references to the earth and nature. On one of his designs, the hand made embroidery on the fabric represents the “rivers”, the circles on others represent “the world” and his favorite is a dress that exemplifies the “rainforest”. Wearing his clothes you can be self- assured you are promoting pro environmental concerns inside and out… We love his anti-exploitation approach!
COLLECTIONS PHOTOGRAPHED BY KAZ STRANKOWSKI AND BLAKE JOHNSON FOR XXXX MAGAZINE
NEW YORK JUNE 2009
MICHAEL DAKS TALKS ABOUT HIS CREATIVE INSPIRATION FOR HIS TARA DANCING SERIES PREMIERING IN MULTIMEDIA FORMAT IN XXXX MAGAZINE’S LAUNCH ISSUE …. WITH MUSIC BY THE DOKTEURS
I was in NYC on 9/11, going to Coloredge to drop some film that morning. I came out of the subway on 21st street just after the first plane had hit. Everyone was staring up at the Tower, but no-one knew what was going on. A few minutes later I saw the plane hit the second Tower. It was a pretty surreal experience, and really frightening. A bit like being an extra on War of the Worlds, but nobody's bothered giving you the script so you don't know if you are going to live or die. A short time later I was walking down 5th Avenue to Washington Square Park when the first of the Towers crumbled to nothing. Eventually, I made it back to Brooklyn, across the Williamsburg Bridge, which was awash in lost and abandoned shoes, like an extreme Guy Bourdin shoot. The second Tower had collapsed by then and most people were covered in a layer of Ash, and some with blood. I spent the rest of the week sitting on my roof in Greenpoint watching the smoldering embers. The photographs of Brooklyn were taken around that time. I went down to New Mexico in the Summer of 2003 to look for a house with some land for a retreat from New York. America had just invaded Iraq. I had heard about the White Sands Missile Museum, and the images of Missiles facing out over the desert sands was a pretty apt reflection of my thoughts on American Imperialism at that time.
The music for the multi-media series is called 'REQUIEM and was written by my friend Brett Hammond while with his band THE DOKTEURS. I had collaborated with Brett on the photography and design for MARY LEE, the debut album of his previous band 'Sunshine Club' - a great bluesy Rock album which is still high on my playlist. Requiem is such a haunting song, especially with the vocals, although we have used the instrumental version here. It seemed like a natural fit for the imagery as Brett had just emailed the song to me and I was playing it continuously while retouching the photographs. He is currently gigging around NYC with his new band TOO MANY ZEBRAS, and I am sure, working on a lot of other 'side' projects. Checkout his music on the film KNIFEPOINT now showing at the Woodstock film festival. I met TARA STILES, my muse in the series, in New York about 10 years ago when she was still a teenager - A ballet dancer from Chicago looking to break intomodelling. Since shooting the original series Tara Stiles career has taken off ...She is now an international Yoga star through her YOUTUBE videos, and has just appeared in the latest American Apparel campaign for their Yoga Line.She also has made appearances on 'Saturday Night live'and MTV's FEAR, She was the original muse for my book of nudes JUST GOOD FRIENDS (photographs of my friend's naked). Lights, camera, TARA, bottle of scotch = Perfect day!Michael Daks 2009
Video sticker for XXXX Magazine launch issue – the Kaleidoscopic issue… 20 second mini promo… share it with your friends!